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NOTE: When deciding your cuff height, keep in mind that you’ll need to be able to turn the pants fabric through the side-edge of the cuff (Construction Step 6). I found 3″ tall comfortable for turning a size 4T. Be careful not to go too short or turning may be difficult.SEWING MATH Let’s start with the CUFF calculations. You’ll need two pieces of accent CUFF fabric. The height of each piece should be twice your desired final height of the cuff plus twice the seam-allowance you’ll use to attach the cuff to the pants. You’ll need each piece to be as wide as the full width (actually, circumference) of the pant leg plustwice the inseam seam-allowance. (Or for the width you could simply measure the full width including seam-allowance at the cut-line on the pants, as figured in the next step of Sewing Math.) Confused? Here’s what all that means:(Final Cuff Height x 2) + (Seam Allowance x 2) = Cuff Fabric HeightExample: (3.25 x 2) + (.25 x 2) = Cuff Fabric Height in inches6.5 + .5 = 7 Final Cuff Fabric Height in inches Pant Bottom Full Width + (Seam Allowance x 2) = Cuff Fabric WidthExample: 16 + (.5 x 2) = Cuff Fabric Width in inches16 + 1 = 17 Final Cuff Fabric Width in inches In this example for a 3 ¼″ tall cuff, you will need to cut two cuffs from the accent fabric, each piece 7″ high by 17″ wide. The cuff will be sewn to the pants across the top with a ¼″ inch seam allowance, and down the inseam with a ½″ seam allowance. Now, you need to subtract the cuff from the bottom of the PANTS pattern. More calculating is necessary. You will cut off the final cuff height minus the seam-allowance you’ll use to attach the cuff. Like this: Final Cuff Height — Seam Allowance = Pants Cut Off AmountExample: 3.25 — .25 = Cut Off Amount in inches 3.25 — .25 = 3 Final Cut Off Amount in inches In this example for a 3 ¼″ tall cuff, you will need to subtract or cut off 3″ from the bottom edge (the hem line) of the main pattern/fabric for the pants. Got it? NOW you can cut.
